• Raj Kiran Chhatkuli

When people think of Mustang, images of Muktinath, Kagbeni, or Lo Manthang often come to mind. Yet nestled quietly near these popular destinations lies Marche — a serene village still untouched by mass tourism, blessed with natural beauty and heartfelt hospitality.

The Journey Begins: Three Bikes, Five Friends

On August 14, 2025 (2082 Saun 30 BS), five friends set out from Pokhara on three motorbikes, taking the route via Baglung to Marche. Along the way, they stopped at the Baglung Kalika Temple for blessings before continuing through Beni and Lete to reach Khanti village. After spending the night at a local home, the group began their trek to Marche the following morning.

A Challenging Yet Beautiful Trail

The path to Marche had no water sources, forcing the group to ration what little they carried. The monsoon had filled the trail with blooming flowers and fresh fragrances, though thick fog often obscured the route.

The group, known as the “Major Team” — also the name of Chhatkuli’s YouTube channel — comprised Roshan, Raj Kiran (author), Sudip, Santosh, and Bharat. After five hours of trekking, they finally arrived at Marche.

A Night in a Yak Shed

With no hotels or lodges in Marche, the travelers were welcomed into an old yak shed. The owner, preparing to leave for the pastures, kindly offered them shelter. Dinner was simple yet memorable — noodles mixed with vegetables, roasted potatoes, and later a stew of potatoes, soybeans, and cabbage cooked over a wood fire.

Sleeping arrangements were basic, with only woolen mats for bedding. Fortunately, the herder provided extra blankets, but the bitter cold made sleeping bags essential. Despite the hardships, the warmth of local kindness left a lasting impression.

Morning with the Herds

At dawn, the group was offered fresh yak milk before heading out to see the grazing sheep. The sight of green hills, herds dotting the slopes, and the golden glow of morning light created an unforgettable experience.

After a 2.5-hour walk back to Khanti, the group enjoyed a traditional meal of buckwheat porridge, tomato-coriander pickle, and fried potatoes — simple village food that tasted exceptionally delicious.

The Final Destination: Titi Lake

The journey concluded with a visit to Titi Lake, a small, pristine, and peaceful body of water surrounded by greenery. The serene environment washed away the group’s fatigue before they returned to Pokhara, drenched by rain but fulfilled by the experience.

Marche — The Soul of Mustang

Although it was his fifth trip to Mustang, Chhatkuli describes Marche as the most unique and heartfelt. The village offered glimpses of Himalayan life, natural beauty, and human kindness beyond words.

“What touched me most,” he writes, “was the herder’s quiet struggle and his small yet profound act of kindness — bringing us warm blankets for the freezing night. His compassion remains etched in my heart.”